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Growing up in San Francisco, Grace Young watched her father shop in Chinatown every day for what he needed to make a traditional Cantonese dish at home. “He was like, ‘Oh, I saw the delivery guy arrived with a case of fresh baby bok choy, so I got some,’ or, ‘I saw the butcher bring a whole pig to the store. So I follow him and cut,” she recalls. An award-winning cookbook author and culinary historian, Ms. Young, 66, has shopped the same way in New York’s Chinatown for decades.
When Young saw familiar streets emptied at the start of the 2020 Covid-19 pandemic, she felt that the lifestyle she took for granted was suddenly under threat. The misinformation that Asian Americans carry the virus has hit Chinese companies particularly hard. “The waiter was just standing around and the store was losing her 80 percent of customers,” she says, adding cauliflower at her café on her street mee tham as she’s busy preparing for the Chinese New Year. I reminisce while watching the stir-fried snow pea sprouts. She “realized that I didn’t really realize how much Chinatown meant to me.”
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